Jacob & Co.: Pharrell’s Auction & the Rise of Hip-Hop Jewelry

The early 2000s were a defining era for hip-hop, and the jewelry worn by its biggest stars was as much a part of the culture as the music itself. Now, a piece of horological history that came to symbolize that era – the Jacob & Co. Five Time Zone Watch – is hitting the auction block, alongside a stunning collection of jewelry owned by Pharrell Williams and Jacob Arabo. The auction, hosted via Pharrell’s commerce platform Joopiter, offers a rare glimpse into the collaborative relationship between the artist and the jeweler, and a chance to own a piece of hip-hop iconography.

Jacob Arabo, known as “Jacob the Jeweler,” rose to prominence in the late 1990s and early 2000s as the go-to jeweler for hip-hop’s elite. Before becoming synonymous with elaborate, diamond-encrusted timepieces, Arabo built his reputation on custom jewelry. The launch of the Five Time Zone Watch in 2002 marked a pivotal moment, transitioning Jacob & Co. From a bespoke jewelry house into a recognized watchmaker. The watch, with its oversized design and practical functionality, quickly became a status symbol, spotted on the wrists of Jay-Z, Busta Rhymes, and Pharrell Williams, among others.

The Five Time Zone Watch: A Symbol of an Era

The Jacob & Co. Five Time Zone Watch wasn’t just about telling time; it was about projecting a lifestyle. In an era before ubiquitous smartphones, the ability to display the time in multiple cities – New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo, and Paris – was a statement of global reach and influence. The watch, available in 40mm and 47mm sizes, was powered by a quartz movement from ETA, making it a reliable and relatively accessible option for those seeking to craft a bold statement. The availability of diamond-encrusted versions further cemented its status as a luxury item. According to GQ, the watch helped propel Jacob Arabo into the horological stratosphere.

The appeal of the Five Time Zone watch extended beyond its functionality and aesthetic. It tapped into the aspirational spirit of the time, representing success, travel, and a connection to a global network. It became a visual shorthand for the lifestyle embraced by hip-hop artists, and its popularity helped to normalize the wearing of luxury watches within the broader culture. The watch’s design, while bold, was likewise relatively simple to read, a practical consideration for those constantly on the move.

A Thirty-Year Partnership: Pharrell and Jacob Arabo

The auction isn’t solely focused on the Five Time Zone Watch; it’s a celebration of a three-decade-long creative partnership between Pharrell Williams and Jacob Arabo. Williams, a longtime client of Jacob & Co., has co-designed approximately 100 pieces of jewelry with Arabo over the years, including the iconic N.E.R.D. Chain that helped define the “bling” aesthetic of the early 2000s. This collaborative relationship speaks to a shared vision for pushing boundaries and creating unique, statement-making pieces.

The N.E.R.D. Chain, a reference to Pharrell’s musical group, was a particularly influential piece, embodying the extravagance and creativity of the era. It demonstrated the power of jewelry to not only signify wealth but also to express artistic identity. The partnership between Williams and Arabo extended beyond jewelry, influencing fashion and popular culture as a whole. GQ highlights the depth of their collaboration, showcasing the numerous pieces they’ve created together.

Highlights from the Joopiter Auction

The Joopiter auction features 30 rare and unique pieces from the personal collections of Pharrell Williams and Jacob Arabo. Beyond the iconic Five Time Zone watch, several standout items are attracting significant attention. A Jacob & Co. Yellow Diamond & Gold Necklace, inspired by the Queen of England’s Crown Jewels, is estimated to fetch between $6 and $8 million. This piece, encrusted with yellow diamonds in various cuts, exemplifies the opulent style that both Williams and Arabo are known for.

Another notable item is a Yellow Gold & Fancy Yellow Diamond Seven Row Cuff Bracelet, a piece Pharrell acquired early in his relationship with Jacob & Co., featuring 57 carats of fancy yellow diamonds. The auction also includes a gem-encrusted Rare Touch Bow Tie, set with approximately 1,600 stones, foreshadowing Pharrell’s later success as a fashion designer. These pieces represent not just financial value, but also a significant cultural and artistic legacy.

Jacob & Co. Diamond & Gemstone Necklace

Courtesy of Joopiter

Image may contain Pharrell Williams Blazer Clothing Coat Jacket Adult Person Accessories Head Face and Pendant

Pharrell sporting the necklace on the red carpet.

Courtesy of Joopiter

The Legacy of “Bling” and Beyond

The auction represents more than just a sale of luxury goods; it’s a reflection on the cultural impact of hip-hop and its influence on fashion and design. The term “bling,” popularized in the early 2000s, became synonymous with the extravagant jewelry and accessories favored by hip-hop artists. The pieces being offered through Joopiter embody that era, showcasing the artistry and craftsmanship that went into creating these iconic items. The auction is scheduled to run through February 28th, offering collectors and enthusiasts a chance to acquire a piece of this cultural history. Further details about the auction, including bidding information, can be found on the Joopiter website.

As the auction draws to a close on February 28th, the legacy of Jacob & Co. And Pharrell Williams’ collaborative work will continue to resonate within the worlds of hip-hop, fashion, and horology. The pieces offered represent a unique intersection of artistry, luxury, and cultural influence. We encourage readers to share their thoughts on this remarkable auction and the enduring impact of hip-hop style in the comments below.

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