Beyond the hype: How Antoine Berneron is Building an Enduring Watch Brand
The world of self-reliant watchmaking is often fueled by singular, striking designs. But translating initial excitement into a lasting legacy? That’s a far more complex challenge. Antoine Berneron,the founder of his eponymous brand,understands this intimately. His debut,the wildly unconventional Mirage,captivated collectors with its Dalí-esque aesthetic and quickly sold out. Now, he’s facing the crucial test of any new luxury house: the sophomore release. And with the Quantième Annuel, Berneron is deliberately charting a different course.This isn’t a simple follow-up.It’s a statement of intent. Berneron isn’t aiming to replicate the shock value of the Mirage; he’s demonstrating the depth of his watchmaking prowess and building a brand designed to endure.
From Radical Design to Masterful Craftsmanship
The Mirage was a bold introduction. The Quantième Annuel, however, presents a more classic face. You’ll notice a symmetrical, round case and a traditionally elegant dial layout. don’t let appearances fool you.
Beneath the surface lies a notable leap in complexity. While the Mirage housed a 135-piece movement, the Quantième Annuel boasts a remarkable 450 components. Berneron’s goal is clear: to prove he’s not just a visionary designer, but a true horloger.
“When you make a new brand, people tend to box you into your first release,” he explains. “I don’t want to be a one-trick pony.”
designed for real Life: Functionality Meets Form
Berneron’s approach with the Quantième Annuel is refreshingly pragmatic. He didn’t just focus on technical achievement; he considered how you would actually use the watch.
here’s how the dial is intelligently organized:
Time: Read at the top of the dial.
Date: Located left to right for rapid reference.
It’s a design philosophy Berneron summarizes succinctly: “There is no drama.”
Further demonstrating this focus on practicality, the watch features replaceable steel bumpers protecting a soft platinum case. He even resisted the temptation to create a complex perpetual calendar – accurate for centuries - opting instead for a more user-friendly annual calendar, requiring adjustment only once a year, based on collector feedback.
A Decade in the Making: A Long-Term Vision
Berneron isn’t simply reacting to market trends. he’s meticulously planning for the future. he already knows the production volume for 2035 (600 pieces – a considerable number for an independent brand) and is actively developing his third collection, “Fiasco,” wich will showcase high-jewelry techniques.
This isn’t accidental. Berneron understands the importance of proactively addressing potential challenges to ensure the brand’s sustainability. He’s realistic, acknowledging that the initial buzz surrounding the Mirage won’t last forever.
“It would be naive to think that the Mirage would be the talk of the town for the next 50 years,” he admits.
Building a Brand, Not Just a Watch
the challenge facing Berneron is a common one: how do you transform a single, hyped product into a lasting business? He’s not looking to other independent watchmakers for answers. Instead, he’s studying the strategies of established giants like Patek Philippe, Cartier, and Rolex.
These brands haven’t achieved longevity through constant innovation alone. They’ve done it through diversification, long-term planning, and a relentless focus on quality.
Berneron articulates the core difference: “There is a huge difference between making a cool watch and making a brand.” And the Quantième Annuel is a crucial step in building that brand. It’s a second “cool watch,” yes, but more importantly, it’s a exhibition of serious intent and a commitment to the future.
About the Author:
Cam Wolf is the Watch Editor for GQ.He brings years of experience covering the world of horology, offering insightful analysis and expert perspectives on the latest trends and innovations.
(A version of this story originally appeared in the September 2025 issue of GQ with the title “how to Build the Next Great Watch Brand”)
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