The Guardian of Thom Browne’s Legacy: Tianni graham and the Future of Fashion Archiving
(Image: Include the provided image here with appropriate alt text: “Tianni Graham, Principal Archivist at thom Browne, surrounded by archival pieces. Courtesy of Tianni Graham.”)
The world of high fashion is often perceived as relentlessly forward-facing, chasing the next trend. Yet, beneath the surface of runway shows and magazine spreads lies a crucial, often unseen force: the archive. And at Thom Browne, a brand renowned for its meticulous construction and narrative depth, that force is embodied by Tianni Graham, the Principal Archivist.Graham isn’t simply preserving garments; she’s safeguarding a legacy,shaping the brand’s future through a deep understanding of its past,and actively working to diversify a historically exclusive field. This is the story of how she’s doing it, and why her work is so vital.
Beyond Preservation: A Holistic Approach to Fashion History
Tianni Graham’s role at Thom Browne extends far beyond the traditional duties of an archivist. She doesn’t just manage, document, and preserve the collection – encompassing runway pieces, special collaborations, custom creations (including iconic Met Gala looks), and everything in between. She contextualizes it. She analyzes it. And she ensures access to it for a diverse range of internal and external stakeholders.
“I’m responsible for the entire lifecycle of the archive,” Graham explains. “From meticulously recording every donation to a museum’s permanent collection, to facilitating requests from designers, PR teams, VIP clients, and curators, it’s a dynamic and multifaceted position.” This holistic approach was, in part, by design. When she joined Thom Browne in 2021,Graham was given the prospect to shape the role,leveraging her expertise to address a growing need within the brand.
This need stems from Thom Browne’s unique design ideology.the brand is intensely self-referential, constantly drawing inspiration from its own history. “During the research phase, our designers frequently look to the archive,” Graham reveals. “I often pull anywhere from 60 to 80 archival looks to fuel the development process.” This constant dialogue between past and present underscores the archive’s central role in the brand’s creative engine.
The Science of Preservation: Protecting a Fragile Legacy
Graham’s expertise isn’t limited to fashion history and design. Her background in materials science informs every aspect of her preservation work. She understands the chemical interactions that threaten the longevity of delicate garments,and implements rigorous protocols to mitigate those risks.
“Chemistry comes into play a lot,” she emphasizes. “We avoid plastic in the archive entirely. It off-gasses, changes color, and accelerates deterioration.” She cites the example of PVC, a material commonly used in fashion, which becomes cloudy and yellow over time.”If you have a PVC piece, it needs to be isolated. The gases it emits can damage surrounding materials.” This meticulous attention to detail, grounded in scientific understanding, is what separates effective archiving from simple storage.
The power of Access: Facilitating Creativity and Storytelling
The demands on Graham’s time are important, particularly during key fashion events. Leading up to Paris Fashion Week, she’s instrumental in sourcing specific pieces for the design team, focusing on details like construction techniques, distressing, and embroidery. Following presentations, she meticulously documents each new creation, capturing every nuance for the archive.The Met Gala, with its frequent requests for archival pulls and custom designs, represents the peak of her busy season.
Beyond immediate brand needs, graham oversees loan agreements for exhibitions, a process that often requires 9 to 18 months of careful planning and negotiation with curators. This commitment to accessibility allows the brand’s history to be shared with a wider audience, enriching the cultural landscape.
Breaking Barriers: A Black Archivist Shaping the Future of the Field
Tianni Graham’s impact extends beyond the walls of the Thom Browne archive. She is a trailblazer, a Black archivist carving out space for her community in an industry that has historically lacked diversity. She recognizes the weight of her position and the responsibility that comes with it.
“It’s important to show people who look like me that this is possible,” Graham states with conviction. “That you can create yoru own lane, or join this one, and I can mentor you and help you succeed.” She actively seeks opportunities to uplift aspiring Black archivists, through her platform, Archive Alive, and through her extensive network.
Graham acknowledges the strong community of Black archivists already making waves in
