Paris is a city renowned for its iconic landmarks, from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre Museum. But beyond the well-trodden tourist paths lie hidden gems, whispers of the past woven into the fabric of the city. One such secret is the story of the Piscine Lutetia, a stunning art deco swimming pool in the 6th arrondissement, now a concept store for the luxury brand Hermès. This isn’t simply a tale of architectural preservation; it’s a story that touches on Parisian history, wartime resilience, and the evolving identity of a beloved city space.
Originally constructed in 1935 by architect Lucien Béguet, the Piscine Lutetia was a marvel of its time. Located at 17 rue de Sèvres, the pool was cleverly concealed behind two glass roofs at the rear of an eight-story building. It wasn’t merely a swimming facility; it was a social hub, boasting a 33-meter by 10-meter wave pool, a rarity for the period. The pool’s design was distinctly art deco, featuring granito and green Briare enamel flooring, contrasted with blue, black, and gold Briare enamel adorning the walls and entrance. According to the French Wikipedia, the pool was initially intended as a private amenity for guests of the nearby Hôtel Lutetia.
From Private Oasis to Wartime Refuge
The history of the Piscine Lutetia takes a poignant turn with the outbreak of World War II. In 1940, the Hôtel Lutetia was requisitioned by the Gestapo, the Nazi secret police, and used as their headquarters in Paris. While the fate of the pool during this period is less documented, its proximity to such a dark chapter in history is undeniable. Following the Liberation of Paris, a new chapter began for the Lutetia. General Charles de Gaulle designated the Hôtel Lutetia – and by extension, the pool – as a center for welcoming survivors of Nazi concentration camps. The pool offered a space for healing and recovery for those who had endured unimaginable horrors. It transitioned from a symbol of luxury to a beacon of hope and resilience.
After the war, the Piscine Lutetia became a public swimming pool, serving the residents of the 6th arrondissement and beyond. It remained a popular destination for Parisians for several decades, offering a unique swimming experience within the city limits. However, by the 1970s, the pool fell into disuse and was eventually closed to the public. Its fate remained uncertain for years, and the building began to take on new, albeit temporary, roles.
A Period of Transition and Rediscovery
For nearly two decades, from 1986 to 1998, the former Piscine Lutetia served as a showroom for the French clothing brand Dorothée Bis. As noted in a 2012 blog post on Paris-bise-art, this period saw the space repurposed, but its unique architectural features remained largely intact. The building’s potential was recognized, but a permanent solution for its future was still elusive. In 2005, the pool was officially designated as a historical monument, recognizing its architectural and cultural significance. It was too labeled as part of the “Patrimoine du XXe siècle” (20th-century heritage) program, further solidifying its protected status.
The turning point came in 2010 when Hermès, the renowned French luxury goods manufacturer, acquired the space. Rather than demolishing or drastically altering the structure, Hermès embarked on a careful renovation project, led by architect Denis Montel. The goal was to preserve the pool’s original art deco features while transforming it into a unique concept store. Montel oversaw the restoration of the stunning mosaics and installed three large wooden frêne huts within the pool area, creating a distinctive retail environment.
The Piscine Lutetia Today: A Hermès Flagship
Today, the former Piscine Lutetia operates as a Hermès store, offering a curated selection of the brand’s products. The space retains much of its original charm, with the mosaics, the high ceilings, and the overall art deco aesthetic serving as a striking backdrop for the luxury goods. Visitors can still sense the history of the building, imagining the swimmers who once frequented the pool and the survivors who found solace within its walls. The transformation has been met with mixed reactions. Some lament the loss of a public space, while others appreciate the preservation of a historical landmark and the innovative repurposing of a unique architectural gem.
The story of the Piscine Lutetia is a microcosm of Paris itself – a city that constantly reinvents itself while cherishing its past. It’s a reminder that even in a bustling metropolis, hidden stories and architectural treasures await discovery. The pool’s journey from a private oasis to a wartime refuge, a public swimming facility, and finally, a luxury retail space, speaks to the enduring spirit of Paris and its ability to adapt and evolve.
The Hermès store at the former Piscine Lutetia remains a popular destination for both locals and tourists. The address is 17 rue de Sèvres, in the 6th arrondissement of Paris. Further information about the store and Hermès can be found on their official website: www.hermes.com. The preservation of this historical site continues to be a topic of discussion among Parisians, highlighting the ongoing tension between commercial development and the preservation of cultural heritage.
As Paris continues to evolve, the Piscine Lutetia stands as a testament to the city’s rich history and its commitment to preserving its architectural legacy. The future of this unique space remains secure, ensuring that generations to approach will be able to appreciate its beauty and reflect on its remarkable story. The next step in the ongoing preservation of Parisian landmarks will be the evaluation of other historical sites for potential restoration and repurposing, a process overseen by the city’s cultural heritage department.
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