Mudik Lebaran Sepi: Kisah Pedagang Tahu di Terminal Surabaya & Sistem Dagang Tertib 2024

A Sluggish Start to Eid Travel: Indonesian Vendor Reflects on Changing Mudik Traditions

The air at Surabaya’s Purabaya Terminal hums with the familiar drone of buses, a soundtrack to the annual mudik – the Indonesian tradition of returning to one’s hometown for Eid al-Fitr. But this year, the usual surge of travelers hasn’t fully materialized. Amidst the bustle, Casmudin walks a slower pace, carefully balancing a tray laden with 200 lumpia (spring rolls) and 100 portions of tahu sumedang (Sundanese fried tofu). He began his day early, arriving at the terminal before sunrise, hoping to capitalize on the anticipated rush. However, as of Wednesday, March 18, 2026, the peak travel period feels distinctly muted.

Casmudin isn’t a casual vendor. He operates within a structured system, a member of the Paguyuban Asongan Surabaya, a cooperative for terminal vendors. His membership card, number 030, and the required uniform – black and green for daytime service – grant him authorized access to the terminal grounds. “Here, only vendors with a card and uniform are allowed inside the terminal area,” he explained, highlighting the organized nature of commerce within the transportation hub. This system aims to provide a safe and regulated environment for both vendors and passengers.

A Contrast to Years Past

The anticipation surrounding Eid is palpable throughout Indonesia, but Casmudin notes a significant difference compared to previous years. He vividly remembers the frenetic energy of the week leading up to Eid in 2025, when the terminal overflowed with passengers and his stock quickly sold out. “Last year was good. For a week before Eid, it was bustling. This year? It’s not busy yet. Usually, a week before Eid it’s crowded. Compared to now, in 2026? Oh dear. It’s not busy,” he stated, reflecting a sense of uncertainty. The contrast is particularly striking given the significant number of passengers already passing through Purabaya Terminal; authorities predicted tens of thousands of travelers on March 17, 2026, marking the anticipated peak of the mudik season, according to Kompas.com.

Casmudin is attempting to gauge the situation, wondering if the slower pace is due to a genuine decrease in travelers or simply a reluctance among passengers to purchase snacks. “It’s standard so far. There doesn’t seem to be a peak yet,” he observed, a question hanging in the air. This sentiment echoes concerns voiced by transportation operators elsewhere in Indonesia. Reports from March 17, 2026, indicated that the Merak port, a key transit point for Java-Sumatra crossings, was experiencing lower-than-expected traffic, leaving significant vessel capacity unused, as reported by Kompas Bandung.

The Organized World of Terminal Vendors

Beneath the surface of Casmudin’s simple trade lies a well-defined organizational structure. Vendors at Purabaya Terminal are divided into specialized groups – some selling tahu, others offering bottled water, or sausages. Each group is affiliated with a paguyuban, a cooperative association, complete with established rules, membership cards, and designated trading zones. This system ensures order and fairness within the bustling terminal environment.

The uniform itself is a visual indicator of this organization. Vendors wear black and green during the day, switching to reversed colors at night, a simple yet effective way to identify authorized personnel. This system isn’t merely about regulation; it’s about providing a livelihood within a structured framework, offering a degree of stability for those who rely on the terminal’s flow of passengers.

Tahu Sumedang: A Popular Snack Amidst the Travel

Even as Casmudin offers both lumpia and tahu sumedang, the latter is a particularly popular snack among travelers. Tahu sumedang, originating from Sumedang Regency in West Java, is a fried tofu dish typically served with a peanut sauce and pickled cabbage. Its savory and slightly sweet flavor profile makes it an appealing choice for those on the go. Surabaya boasts a wide array of establishments offering this beloved snack, with at least 28 restaurants specializing in tahu sumedang, according to MenuKuliner.net. These include Kue Lumpur Galaxy, Spesial Belut, and Tahu Sumedang Yakaya, among others.

The popularity of tahu sumedang extends beyond Surabaya. Tahu Sumedang Yakaya, located in Superindo Yakaya Rungkut, is a well-known establishment offering various options, including Tahu Sumedang, Tahu Isi Sumedang, and Tempe Krispy, with prices starting around Rp 17,500 (approximately $1.10 USD as of March 18, 2026), as detailed on Cari Kuliner Indonesia. This accessibility and affordability contribute to its appeal as a travel snack.

The Broader Context of Mudik and Indonesian Travel

Mudik is more than just a logistical challenge; it’s a deeply ingrained cultural practice in Indonesia. Millions of Indonesians travel across the archipelago to spend Eid with their families, often undertaking long journeys by bus, train, ferry, or plane. The government invests significant resources in managing the mudik flow, providing transportation subsidies, improving infrastructure, and ensuring security. The economic impact of mudik is substantial, as it stimulates spending in hometowns and supports the transportation sector.

However, the mudik tradition has evolved in recent years. Factors such as rising transportation costs, increased traffic congestion, and the availability of online communication technologies have led some to reconsider the annual journey. The COVID-19 pandemic also disrupted mudik for several years, prompting many families to celebrate Eid remotely. The current slower pace at Purabaya Terminal may reflect a continuation of these trends, as well as broader economic conditions impacting disposable income.

The situation at Purabaya Terminal serves as a microcosm of the broader challenges and changes facing the Indonesian travel sector. While the tradition of mudik remains strong, its form and intensity are subject to evolving economic, social, and technological forces. Casmudin’s experience highlights the impact of these changes on the individuals who rely on the annual travel surge for their livelihoods.

As the days leading up to Eid continue, it remains to be seen whether Purabaya Terminal will experience the anticipated surge in passenger traffic. Authorities will continue to monitor the situation and adjust their strategies accordingly. For Casmudin and his fellow vendors, the coming days will be crucial in determining the success of their Eid season. The next official update regarding passenger numbers at Purabaya Terminal is expected on March 20, 2026, from the Surabaya Transportation Authority.

What are your thoughts on the changing dynamics of mudik? Share your experiences and perspectives in the comments below. Don’t forget to share this article with your network to spread awareness about the challenges and resilience of Indonesian vendors during this crucial cultural period.