The Shadowy Underbelly of Italy’s Fashion Hub: Prato’s Mafia War
Prato, a Tuscan city renowned for its thriving apparel industry, is grappling with a disturbing reality. Beneath the veneer of fast fashion and entrepreneurial spirit lies a brutal power struggle involving organized crime – specifically, Italy’s Chinese mafia. Recent violence, including a double murder in Rome and a series of arson attacks, has brought the escalating conflict into sharp focus, revealing a complex web of corruption, exploitation, and control.
A City Built on Textiles and Trouble
Trucks relentlessly traverse Prato’s industrial zone,a vast landscape of warehouses and showrooms like Miss Fashion and Ohlala Pronto moda. Open doors expose the industry’s core: garment racks, fabric rolls, and boxes destined for shipment. This final, crucial step in the supply chain was, for years, allegedly controlled by Zhang Naizhong, a figure prosecutors have labeled the “boss of bosses” within Italy’s Chinese mafia.
Zhang was described in a 2017 court document as the “leading figure in the unscrupulous circles of the chinese community” across Europe. His alleged influence extended beyond Italy, encompassing operations in France, Spain, Portugal, and Germany, with a firm grip on the transport sector. Zhang Dayong, recently murdered alongside his girlfriend, served as Zhang Naizhong’s key deputy.
These killings followed a disturbing pattern of violence, with three major warehouse fires occurring near Paris and Madrid in the preceding months. Investigators believe these incidents are directly linked to the ongoing power struggle.The Rise of the ‘Prato System’ and its Dark Side
The situation in Prato isn’t simply a matter of criminal activity; it’s a consequence of evolving global forces. Changes in apparel manufacturing, increased globalization, and large-scale migration have all contributed to what’s become known as the ‘Prato system.’ Sadly, corruption has also played a meaningful role.
In May 2024, a high-ranking official within Prato’s Carabinieri police was accused of leaking classified information – including sensitive worker details – to both Italian and Chinese business owners. this alleged breach of trust highlights a systemic problem.
Francesca Ciuffi, a representative from the Sudd Cobas trade union, reports that police complaints filed by workers who had been attacked were routinely ignored, effectively “ending up in a drawer.” This lack of protection has left vulnerable workers exposed to exploitation and intimidation.
Further eroding public trust, Prato’s mayor resigned in June following a corruption examination centered on accusations of trading political favors for votes.
[Image of a plaque commemorating the seven Chinese workers who died in the 2013 factory fire in Prato.Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP]
A plaque serves as a somber reminder of the seven Chinese workers who tragically lost their lives in a clothing factory fire in Prato in December 2013.
Fighting for Workers’ Rights – A Tough Battle
Despite the challenges, progress is being made. Sudd Cobas has recently secured national-level contracts for workers at over 70 companies.This represents a significant step towards formalizing employment and improving working conditions.However, these gains offer little solace to those caught in the crosshairs of the mafia war.As Ciuffi poignantly states,”bombs have exploded and warehouses have been burned down.”
The reality is stark: individuals simply trying to earn a living are facing serious risk of injury or worse, caught in a conflict that has nothing to do with them.
What Does This Mean for You?
If you’re involved in the fashion industry, or simply a conscious consumer, understanding the complexities of supply chains is crucial. The situation in Prato serves as a cautionary tale, demonstrating how unchecked power and corruption can thrive within globalized industries.
Supporting ethical brands, advocating for transparency, and demanding accountability are all vital steps you can take to contribute to a more just and lasting fashion ecosystem.
This article is based on reporting by AFP’s Alexandria Sage.